In ancient times, cosmetics were used not just for enhancing outer beauty, but to attain punya, ayush, aarogyam and anandam.
Do you know that cosmetology, that is, the skill of using cosmetics, has always been a part of our culture. This 'chatushashti' art forms like painting, dance, drama, music and sculptures is a part of 64 arts (chausath kala) which were used to be practised since ancient times. It is believed that the ancient science of cosmetology was born in Egypt and India. Things related to cosmetology, were used during the Indus Valley Civilisation as well. In those times, both women and men were equally conscious about their appearances. In the timeframe of Indus valley civilisation, kohl (kajal) was applied on the eyelashes and below the eyebrows. During those times, the method of preparing kajal was quite natural. Aside from its asthetic appeal, kajal was originally worn as a form of protection for the eye. The belief was that darkening around the lids could shield them from the harsh rays of the sun, while protecting the person wearing it from 'nazar' or the evil eye.
Cosmetics weren't just used to enhance the physical beauty, but also to obtain virtue (punya), long life(ayush), good health (aarogyam), and happiness (anandam). If we see from Mauryan era to Gupta era, Kautilya's "Arthashastra", Vatsyana's "Kama Sutra", Kalidasa's "Shakuntalam", and many more great epics confirm that even then women putting on make-up was an essential part of the culture.
In his drama 'Malavikagnimitram', Kalidasa refers to painting of cheeks, the forehead, and lips of women with beautiful designs, particularly with the advent of spring. It was a practice in those days to cut thin and tender bhurja leaves in decorative forms and designs and paste them on the forehead. Paints were also used to decorate forehead, cheeks, neck, palms, toes etc.
By the word 'visheshak' Kalidasa referred to the art of decorating the body with colours, that is body painting. In order to paint one's body, bezoar, deer musk, vermillion, and sandalwood paste and so on were used. In 'Malavikagnimitram' a red colour named alakta is also mentioned, which is also called alta in hindi, which was used to colour the feet of women. Even Kathak and Bharatnatyam dancers while performing applied alta to their feet, to keep their feet cool while dancing. In Kathakali, one of the ancient dance forms, the painting of face is also a form of 'visheshak' , or body painting.
After visheshak, another important part of adornment was 'perfume'.
it is mentioned in Rigveda, which was written in 4500 BC, that in ancient india, aroma theraphy existed parallelly along with Ayurveda which was called 'GANDHYUKTI' (perfumery). Ancient india mastered the manufacturing of scents, perfumes and cosmetics. A famous astrologer of the 6th century AD, Varahamihira, in his famous work , Brihatsamhita, had written an entire chapter on perfumery. In one verse of the 17th chapter, the writer mentions how the specialists in making perfumes would use just 16 ingredients in different proportions, permutations and combinations and prepare 174720 scents and perfumes!
The third important part of adornment in ancient times was 'ANGARAGA' that is face make up. In ancient india, women would use lodhra powder for their face and paint their lips using light and different shades of colours. Even then, colouring nails and toes was common, and the one specialised in this art was called 'nakhlekhak'.
KESHALANKARA which means art of dressing up the hair, is an important component of makeup. The indian hairdo and hair styles were popular all over the world as is evident from the sculpture and paintings in different temples at Belur, Halebid, Khajuraho , Ajanta, Sanchi, Barhut etc.
SOLAH SHRINGAR is an important thing when we are talking about adornment. In Indian culture, solah shringar means the 16 essential items which enhance the beauty and charm of a woman from head to toe, which includes- bindi, vermillion, head ornament, kohl, nose ring, earrings, necklace,henna, bangles, finger-ring, wiast chain, hair ornament, anklet,toe ring, ittar(perfume) and a veil.
Traditionally, the area between the eyebrows is said to be the sixth chakra, ajna, the seat of concealed wisdom. The bindi is said to retain energy and strengthen concentration. The bindi also represents the third eye.
Even today, make up is equally important for women. The only difference is that the brilliant natural elements used in earlier times have been replaced by synthesised chemicals. Although, these days, women are using unharmful chemical free and organic make up products. One thing is for sure that adornment isn't something new for us. It has always been enhancing our beauty and also the beauty of our culture, and will keep enhancing in the future as well.
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