With this fast changing world, where old cities are losing their identity backed by modernisation, Lucknow has still upheld the roots of his past times, through which the golden history of Awadh is associated. This capital of Uttar Pradesh still counts among few cities of India, having its own unique personality. In this whole of India hardly any city might have existed which could compete with the beauty of Awadh evenings (Shaam-e-awadh) and the delicacy arousing from these common lanes. The legacy of the Nawabs of Awadh can be witnessed in their draping styles, their Urdu accent and in delightful delicacies.
Lucknow, the city of Nawabs which once suffered a huge impact in the 1857 revolts, has still uphold its culture and dignity. Its quite impossible to relish these pocket friendly dishes anywhere in India, what these common lanes of Awadh offer respectively. Even though Lucknow has transformed into a beautiful city, but Awadh is one of the oldest principalities of India. According to Hindu Mythology, Awadh or Ayodhya was the birthplace of Lord Rama. Akbar, the third Mughal emperor divided the whole of India into 12 provinces, one of them being Awadh.
In 18th century, after the Mughal decline of power, Hyderabad and Awadh emerged as independent powerful kingdoms who further carried Mughal legacy and their cultures. So, Mughal cuisines recieved a warm welcome in the royal kitchens of Awadh.
During the construction of Bara Imambara in Lucknow in 1784, by Asaf-ud-Daulah, the then Nawab of Lucknow, the workers prepared a dish by putting boiled rice, mutton and all other spices together at a slow flame. The Nawab was so enchanted by its aroma that he ordered his khansama (royal chef) for its inclusion in royal cuisine. This led to the invention of a new cooking technique called Dum pukht larhmeen, or slow cooking on flame. This cooking technique give rise to one of the most iconic dishes in the history of Lucknow- Dum Biriyani, which was actually the dish served to the labourers and workers, but its aroma and flavours made it to be the flag bearer of Nawabi cuisine.
The biriyani was actually made in huge copper vessels as even Rig Veda stated the art of cooking in copper vessels for inclusion of its nutritional values inside the food. Biriyani, which was a actually a Persian dish, was introduced in India in around 12th-13th century, which later on became a jewel in Mughal and Nawabi cuisine.
Unfortunately many languages along with their associated cuisines lost their identity with time. But the Nawabs residing in Lucknow and their royal families and their respective successors have still uphold the dignity of Awadhi cuisine. According to them, the perfect culinary skills should have three fundamentals- Taste, Aroma and Rich in vitality.
One of the most important dishes in Awadhi dastarkhawn( traditional space where food is eaten) is Musallam, meaning in its intact form or as a whole. Murgh Musallam is one of the most delicious dishes in Lucknow.
The dishes introduced from Central Asia and Persia were examined in great detail and changes were made accordingly. One such example is of Pasanda Kebab, which was made by making fillets in strips of boneless mutton. This was mostly favourite to Nawabs of Lucknow.
Even though Nawabi is non existent today in Lucknow, but their legacy is still alive through their culinary art. Several ancestral cuisines are still cooked and eaten there with pride and delicacy.
The colourful busy lanes of Lucknow still explores the fascinating tales related to Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Lucknow. Within these tales, lies therein an interesting story of the invention of Galouti Kebabs.
The common folklore states that Nawab Wajid Ali Shah had lost most of his dentures due to old age, but his penchant for kebabs were far from dying. So for their toothless Nawab the seasoned Khansamas came up with a popular variant which needed no chewing yet had the same rich flavours and taste of a kebab. This led to the invention of Galouti Kebab (Galaouti meaning melt in the mouth) which was actually a mix of 150 spices. Even after 150 years to this incident Galouti Kebab is still popular in Lucknow, specially of the famous shop 'Tunday Kababi'.
Shaami Kebab or the kebabs served in the evening, got its name from Syria, which was introduced in India in 13th-14th Century. Shaami and Seekh are the two main varieties of kebab popular in India. Seekh Kebabs came 3700 years ago from Russia, which is basically a spiced minced or grounded meat formed into cyclinders on skewers and grilled.
Nawab Mehmud Khan laid the foundation of another city Mehmudabad, close to Lucknow, which also equally carry forward the legacy of Nawab culinary art. The cuisine of Mehmudabad was inspired from Babylonian cuisine. The most important dish prepared here is Shab Deg. Shab (night) and deg (cooking pot). This dish was cooked throughout the night to bring it to the right flavour and thickness. It was basically cooked on firewood-lit hearths and is a combination of turnip, meat and a variety of spices.
Speaking of the desserts, a popular sweet dish called halwa was eaten, made out of black carrots or they say Kali Gajar ka Halwa. Another dessert quite similar to Bread Pudding is Shahi Tukda, made out of ghee fried bread, thickened sweetened milk, saffron and nuts. Another traditional Hindu sweet dish 'kheer' was modified into 'firni', cooked in the same way using crushed rice grains.
The Nawabs used to live a life of luxury and pleasure which is also one of the main reasons of their detoriating health way before time. For this, the local physicians or Hakim would mix a variety of herbs in Awadhi dishes so that the Nawabs could enjoy their luxury of eating without compromising their health. This technique of preparing food was called Kushta, which forms an important part of Unani Medicine.
The rich legacy of Nawabs, popular for their way of speaking, manners and ethics. Their richness is widely reflected in their culture, their language and especially their culinary skills. So next time you ever visit Lucknow and binge on biriyani, kebabs or shahi tukda, do thank the legacy of these Nawabs!
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